64 Jackson Street (corner of Jackson and Spruce)
Lackawanna, NY 14218
(716) 822-4292
http://www.mulberryitalianristorante.com/
Tues-Sat 11:30am-9:30pm
Sun 4pm-9pm
Cuisine: Italian
Reservations: Highly Recommended
Tucked away on the narrow streets of Lackawanna's Bethlehem Park is a gem of Buffalo Italian cuisine. The Mulberry is a quaint little spot perfect for an intimate evening or a large Italian style family meal. The exterior is reminisant of the opening credits of a film noir detective movie. The warm glow of the dim lights on the ancient red brick pours years of Buffalo history out onto the sidewalks of its quiet neighborhood. The lack of a lighted sign makes the Mulberry feel even more like a little family owned Italian joint. The parking is a little rough with a single lot across from the front door and curb side parking on the one way streets but, trust me, the minimal aggravation is worth it. I highly recommend a reservation, especially on the weekends. The Mulberry may be hidden but it is a very popular among those who find it.
Once you've found a parking spot, you enter into a beautiful bar area surrounded by Buffalo sports memorabilia (oh,and a Dan Marino jersey...but we'll let that slide). The deep red walls add to the warmth and charm of the Mulberry. You immediately feel welcome, like walking into a friend's home for dinner.
The atmosphere is only the beginning at the Mulberry. The food is what you come for. At a large table in the corner, we enjoyed some real, hearty, homemade Italian food. They boast that "We choose our ingredients for our customers the way a Grandmother chooses ingredients for her family." and it really tastes like that same Grandmother cooked the food just for you.
We started with the Winter Caprese. The Mulberry's soft mozzarella (homemade right there at the restaurant) is generously sliced, topped with marinated tomatoes and drizzled with a basil pesto. At $7, it is a refreshing start to any meal.
Make sure you save some room for the main dish because you'll need it. I ordered the Penne alla Occhino (O-kee-no). Served in a large bowl, the penne pasta is sautéed in a red vodka sauce and topped with grilled veal and shrimp. The vodka smooths out the wonderfully tangy red sauce and makes the flavors linger in your mouth bite after bite. The finely chopped grilled veal adds a roasted taste to the whole entree and perfectly compliments the tingling aroma of the vodka sauce. The grilled shrimp finish off the bold taste and leave you begging for the recipe. The Mulberry’s Penne alla Occhino is a full bodied, well balanced taste experience and is a must-try dish. At $19, worth every penne (I mean penny).
Kerri chose one of her favorites, the Gnocchi (No-kee). The softness of each bite is complimented by the warmth and well blended spice of the Mulberry's classic red sauce. Every bit of the Gnocchi is perfectly cooked for a light feel and lasting enjoyment. It is a quality, hearty meal at $13. If you show up after 4:30pm on Wednesdays, you can enjoy their freshly homemade Gnocchi. Oh yeah, and it comes with a meatball, but not just any meatball. We're talking about the Mulberry Meatball. It is part of many of their entrees but can also be ordered separately as it is a meal all in its own. The fist-sized meatball rests atop the plate as if taunting you to eat it all. I am warning you though, once you start to eat it, you won't want to stop.
The Mulberry is a hidden treasure of Western New York. In the couple times we've gone, we have seen such local celebrities as Brian Higgins, Chuck Schumer, Mary Travers Murphy and John Murphy (the voice of the Bills). I understand that members of the Bills and Sabres frequent this special little spot as well. All in all, The Mulberry left us full and happy but needing another trip to try more from their extensive menu of homemade Italian perfection.
-JP
